American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Andes, Cuerno Blanco, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Cuerno Blanco, South Face. In December 2007 Valentino Rota, David Valdez, and I climbed a new route on the south face of Cuerno Blanco (5,050m). It is a beautiful, rarely climbed mountain in Chile's Yeso Valley, east of Santiago. On December 20 we started walking north, in the Termas del Plomo (2,900m), through the Yeso Valley. After five hours we reached the Bello Glacier (3,900m) and installed base camp. On December 21 we walked three hours to the bergschrund and started climbing on the right side of the south face. The first half is 50° and the second half 65°. We reached the east ridge 300m below the summit, scrambled through easy little rock bands, and reached the summit (5,050m). We descended the Normal Route (west ridge), returning to base camp on December 22 at 9 a.m.

Rodrigo Ponce Rementerìa, Club Andino Universitario, Chile

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