American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Vilcanota, Various New Routes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Various new routes. On October 4, from a base camp at Alcacocha Lake (4,600m), students of the Casa de Guias de Huaraz made five new routes on three mountains.

On Nevado Qampa (5,500m; also named Jampa or Maria Huamantilla) Johan Zárate and Alberto Hung established YAS Gael (150m, III 65°), leaving camp at 2:45 a.m. and summiting at 9:05 a.m. They climbed the southwest face and the long ridge to the summit.

Raul Laveriano, Willy Alvarado, Beto Pinto, Claudio Luylla, Roger Lluylla, and Steven Fuentes started for Nevado Pucapunta (5,490m; Hatunpunta on some maps) at 2 a.m., but had to wait two hours before crossing the glacier due to fog. Finally they started climbing the south wall of the west summit. Near the start was a 3m section of hard ice and mixed. They continued on hard snow, climbed through a difficult section of hard ice, and reached the sugar-snow ridge that took them 30m to the summit. They descended via the east ridge, navigating crevasses until reaching the col between the Pucapuntas and doing some rappels to gain the crevassed glacier and the moraine. Magno Camones (360m, MD 65°).

At 3 a.m. three teams set off for new routes on the 350m north face of Nevado Mariposa (Santa Catalina, 5,808m). They all met on the summit. The routes: EL.JHG (MD III 80°, Melesio Escolásti- co-Marco Luylla), Almita (MD V 80°, Dario Alva-Flavio Mandura), and Denia (MD V 60°, Miguel Gamarra–Willy Huamán).

Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru

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