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South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Puscanturpa Chiquita, Burro Loco

Puscanturpa Chiquita, Burro Loco. From July 10-13 Patrik Barjak and I climbed a new route on the north face of a small virgin tower in the Puscanturpa Sur massif. We called the route Burro Loco (Crazy Donkey) and the 5,066m tower Puscanturpa Chiquita. The 300m route has seven pitches (UIAA 6+, 8-, 8-, 4, 5, 8, 2), plus easy climbing to the summit. We placed 11 bolts at belays and seven on the pitches, and used fixed ropes. Big Camalots are needed for pitch three, and the descent is down the route. During all four days the weather was snowy and windy. The route is nice crack climbing in solid rock, with some slabs.

Vlado Linek, Slovakia