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North America, Mexico, Nuevo León, El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana

El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana. Rudy Salinas and Emilio Plasencia (both Mexican) and I opened this route, on the northeast face of El Toro in Potrero Chico, in extreme heat in August. We used Sendero Luminoso ledges as our base camp and could only climb after 2 p.m., when the wall was shaded. Our route starts with the first pitch of Underdog, goes left of Land of the Free, crosses it to the right, and goes to a big horizontal ledge almost halfway up the wall. From there it climbs a previously virgin wall left of the Sendero Luminoso pillar. The route is mostly bolted, but you need some gear for pitches five and 12. It ends about two pitches below the top of the wall (we hope to return and extend the route), and descent is by rappel (two 50m ropes). Huevos a la Mexicana (425m, V 5.12).

Oriol Anglada, Spain