American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelndal, Tininnertuup IV (1,725m), East Face, Attempts

North America, Greenland, South Greenland, Cape Farewell Region

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2008
  • Publication Year: 2009

Sarah and Tony Whitehouse returned to the Hermelndal to finish their line attempted in 2007 (see AAJ 2008), left of Rapakivi Road on the east face of Tininnertuup IV. The pair used fixed ropes, and after climbing the first three pitches of Rapakivi Road to where it moves right using aid over a roof, continued up the prominent left-facing corners above. They free-climbed four or five difficult independent pitches, before rejoining Rapakivi Road, which they followed for another five pitches to just below the halfway ledge. They named their variant Freeway (British E3 5c). They were hampered by bad weather; they were early in the season and had only three days of fine weather in three weeks. They note that Greenland had a very snowy winter but cold, dry spring; they had to walk across rocky ground all the way from their campsite to the foot of the wall, whereas in 2007 this journey had been over snowfields. Rivers seemed much higher, and several hardcore trekkers told them that river crossings in the region were either impossible or becoming dangerous.

The Whitehouses left the valley for Nanortalik on a pre-arranged pick up, but returned to try the big arch to the left of Freeway. After re-climbing the first three pitches of Rapakivi Road, they branched left and climbed four new pitches, the first, which had very little gear, rated British E5 5c/6a. They were unable to complete a fifth independent pitch due to meltwater.

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