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North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded

Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded. In the Weasel Valley on July 1, Chris Atkinson and I established Overlorded (1,800m, 30 pitches, TD+ 5.10-) to Overlord’s summit in 18 hours roundtrip. Although we did not see any evidence, the first half of the route, where we climbed the right side of the west-facing lower pyramid face, might follow the Traversée Pyramidale, as described in Synnott’s book. (Other routes exist on big ridge/buttresses on Overlord’s west face.) The top half moves left across snow patches to the steeper northwest buttress. Most of the climbing is in the 5.7–5.9 range, with a few pitches up to mid-5.10 near the top. The rock is generally good except for the last pitch, which recently melted out of the summit icecap and is a maze of teetering blocks and sandy ledges.

Marc Piché, Canada