Unnamed Peak, Couloir Canalla. On May 18 Luis Red Angel (Spain), Simon from Germany (I don’t know his last name), and I climbed a new route on an unnamed peak on the Tokositna Glacier. The route, Couloir Canalla, was 700m long, with snow up to 70° and a short mixed section. After an attempt at the West Face Couloir route on Mt. Huntington, we saw this attractive line on the other side of the glacier, to the left of the start of the French Ridge, about a half hour from base camp. The broad, east- facing couloir was short, but steep enough that less snow accumulated, making it less dangerous. When the weather cleared, we waited two days for the snow to stabilize, as constant avalanches came down all around. Finally we moved…then it started snowing. Shit! We waited, it cleared a little, and we continued in mixed weather. We climbed through good snow, deep snow, and a little easy mixed. On the summit we sank hip-deep. It began snowing hard, and we snapped photos and started down. After 13 rappels we crossed the ‘schrund in the middle of a growing storm. The hostile Tokositna!
We reached base camp, where our Wyoming neighbors gave us a beer, and we called for our flight out. On the next day we enjoyed an unmatched view of these wild mountains and glaciers, and the pleasure of not having cold feet anymore.
Cecilia Buil, Spain