American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
Black Diamond Logo

Cloud Peak, No Climb for Old Men

Wyoming, Big Horn Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Mark Jenkins
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2009

In late August Colorado climber and hand surgeon Ken Duncan and I made the first ascent of the southeast prow of Cloud Peak in the Cloud Peak Wilderness. After a rough 12-mile hike from the east, we camped between Sapphire and Diamond lakes. At dawn the next day we were on the Nose-like arête. The climbing turned out to be harder than we expected, with multiple pitches of run-out 5.11—Duncan took the hardest, boldest leads. After 12 pitches we summited at dusk. Whipped, we bivied without bivy gear, setting new PRs for short-term misery. We named the route No Climb for Old Men (IV 5.11cR A2).

Mark Jenkins, AAC

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.