American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Montana, Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima. In late July Bob Goodwin and I made what may be a new route on the north face of Granite Peak. We reached the north ridge of Temple Peak at noon and stared over at the north face, determining the most direct line to the summit. We then descended 1,500' in a half hour to the base of the north face. After 1,000' of steep snow in one hour, we gained wet, ridiculously loose rock that I found appalling and Goodwin, being a Teton climber, found perfectly solid. Simul-climbing, we completed another thousand feet of shattered rock in two hours, topping out directly on the summit block. Our line, Directissima (III 5.8), goes directly up the summit arête, 100 yards left of Chadwick-Bowman.

Mark Jenkins, AAC

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