Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, IV 5.11) in winter 2007-08 with assistance from Bryan Bird and Jeff Richerds. This route is equipped with chains and can be rapped with one 60m rope. The approach is easiest from Springdale’s town park: across the bridge and up the dirt road. Continue uphill toward the reflector sign on the southwest face of Mt. Johnson, then around to the south face, about a one-hour hike. Gear: a quad set of thin hands to big hands up to 6".
In the spring and fall Bill Ohran, Robbie Colbert, and Dan Snyder established the Force Boyle (8 pitches, IV 5.11+ A0) on the west face. The route starts with a splitter crack in a deep, wide chimney. It is equipped with chains and rap hangers at every belay; rapping the route requires a 70m rope or two 60m ropes. Make the same approach as for the Tree House of Horror but cut up left after passing the base of the outcrop that sits in front of Johnson. Then follow the outcrop to the base of the route; about an hour-and-15-minute approach.