American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2009

Sawtooths, Mt. Cramer, North Face. Last year while climbing other remote routes in the Sawtooths, I caught a fleeting view of this overlooked face and was awestruck. We had to get a closer inspection. In mid- August Jimmy Watts and I took the boat across Redfish Lake and backpacked to the cirque at the end of the Redfish drainage. The next morning we began climbing a massive dihedral system in the center of the face, finding 1,000' of vertical to overhanging clean granite with splitter cracks for its length. It had one pitch of 5.11, and the rest checked in around 5.10, with small amounts of clean aid. A 70m rope would be useful, to link stances without simul-climbing. We used a double set of cams, two larger cams, nuts, and RP’s. We descended the east ridge and then the first couloir encountered, back into the Redfish drainage.

Nick Dolecek

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