North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipe-Line

Publication Year: 2009.

Mt. Carillon, Sweet Carillon and Pipeline. Only two hours from Whitney Portal but unseen from the North Fork Trail, the east face of Mt. Carillon (13,552') stands guard over beautiful Cleaver Cirque. On July 20 Andre Kiryanov and I went up toward an orange dike slashing the face and found 11 exposed pitches of great rock split by Yosemite-style cracks. A little 4th-class scrambling led to the first pitch, which has an obvious crack that leads to a left- facing dihedral, ending at the base of a clean, knobby flake. After climbing the flake, angle left on the Unlikely Traverse, which surmounts a roof and launches you into a short but stout offwidth. While leading I hung on a cam in the offwidth, though Andre followed it clean. From there the route trends up left until arriving below a beautiful 120' dihedral with a 1-2" crack running the entire length. Two more pitches take you to the top. Sweet Carillon (IV 5.10 A0).

While there we saw an imposing roof of flawless granite extending from the wall more than 30'. On the weekend of August 2 we started up a crack system directly below the wave-like roof. At the money pitch we traversed the right side of the roof, jamming and underclinging while smearing the slab below. We resorted to aid, but with a little work the roof should go free at 5.11 or 5.11+. Pipeline (III 5.10 A0).

Shay Har-Noy, Pullharder Alpine Club