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Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Cholong Kangri (6,182m), First Ascent

Cholong Kangri (6,182m), first ascent. On September 30, 2007,

John Deans (U.K.), Greg Vernovage (U.S.), Kurt Wedberg (U.S.), and I summited an unclimbed Tibetan peak located by GPS at N 28°82, E 90°30. Leaving base camp at 3:30 a.m. we ascended from 16,045' (N 78°79, E 90°32) to a cache at 18,110' (28°81, E 90°31) on the south ridge. We roped up and with crampons ascended the southern ridgeline, staying to the west side of the cornice, and arriving at the summit ridge at 2 p.m. From there we traversed to the northwest, to the true high point on the ridge. The descent followed the same route along the south ridge, and we arrived into base camp in darkness by 8p.m.

In 2006 we had visited the region to reconnoiter this cluster of four peaks. The locals named this one Cholang Kangri; it is two peaks to the east of the peak named Jangsung Lhomo on the 1:100,000 scale topographic map by Mi Desheng. Our peak is unnamed on the map and given an elevation of 6,182m (6,234m GPS). We chose the route along the southeasterly ridge because keeping to the ridge on the approach avoided crevassed glaciers on either side.

Christian Bergum, AAC