American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Tibet, Northwest Tibet, Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2008

Lungkar Shan, Tachab Kangri (6,704m), attempt. In August we visited the northern end of the Lungkar Shan in northwest Tibet.

Our peak, Tachab Kangri, lies southeast of Marme village and Tsa Tso lake. Marme lies roughly 60km southwest of the county town of Gertse (Lumaringpo), from which it can be reached by road. Our party consisted of Kevin Clarke, Mike Dawber, and Richard Sant from Scotland, and me from England. We left Kathmandu on July 31 and traveled by Land Cruiser via Zhang- mu, Nyalam, Saga, Tsochen, and Gertse to reach our base camp on August 6. We placed camp by a nomad encampment at 5,000m at the foot of the narrow Tachab Valley, which runs southwest, terminating in the Tachab Glacier and the northeast face of the peak. With the help of yaks we established advance base at 5,670m on the 11th, at the foot of the glacier 8km up the valley. We occupied Camp 1, on the glacier at 6,017m, on the 14th. A final push on the 16th to establish a last camp on the col to the southeast of the summit was halted by a large snow slide on the slopes above the route. We

explored an alternative route via the northwest col, but abandoned it when an even larger slide devastated the entire slope below. Our final high point was about 6,300m.

The route appeared to consist mainly of straightforward snow slopes without significant technical difficulties. The weather was mixed throughout the expedition, with frequent thunderstorms, perhaps reflecting severe monsoon conditions in India at this time.

John Town, Alpine Club

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