American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Ama Dablam, Northeast Face to North Ridge, New Route Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Ama Dablam, northeast face to north ridge, new route attempt. A Corean Alpine Club expedition led by Cho Yu-dong, with Cha Gyeong-ryeol, Choi Dong-ryeol, Choi Young-sik, Jang Byeongwook, Kim Dong-gyu, Park Seok-hee, and Yang Byeong-ok, reached base camp on October 26 at 5,000m below the northeast face of Ama Dablam. They established advanced base on the 29th at 5,200m. Choi Dong-ryeol and Park Seok-hee pushed the route to 5,800m, and the team placed Camp 1 at 5,700m on November 3. The following day Cha, Choi Young-sik and Jang reached 6,000m, and later Choi Dong-ryeol, Kim, Park and Yang climbed onto the crest of the north ridge at 6,100m, where they discovered a old deadman of French manufacture. All members descended to base camp on November 10 due to deteriorating weather. They rested here for four days, then on the 15th Choi Dong-ryeol, Jang, and Kim set off for a summit attempt. They made Camp 2 at 6,100m on the 16th, and on the 17th Jang and Kim reached the expedition high point on the north ridge at 6,400m. Due to their lack of provisions and fuel and a weakening physical state, base camp requested that they abandon further progress and descend.

Lee Young-jun, Corean Alpine Club (translated by Peter Jensen-Choi).

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