American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Jasmaba Goth, West Ridge Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2008

Jasmaba Goth, west ridge attempt. Jasamba Goth is the name given to the 6,730m shoulder toward the end of the long northwest ridge of Pasang Lhamu Chuli, where the ridge splits into two branches; one falling north of west and the other south of west. The peak was named by Tamotsu Ohnishi in 1996, when his Japanese expedition climbed the southerly branch of the ridge, over the summit, and up the northwest ridge of Pasang Lhamu Chuli to make this mountain’s second ascent. (The first, by a Japanese party in 1986, was made from Tibet, and it is not clear where they reached the northwest ridge.) They were followed the same season by a French expedition. The northwest ridge marks the frontier between Nepal and Tibet, and its continuation reaches the Nangpa La. There are rumors that Pasang Lhamu Chuli was climbed by climbers preparing for fast alpine-style ascents of lines on Cho Oyu, and it seems unlikely that the accessible Jasamba Goth was still virgin when it was climbed by the Japanese.

The peak was attempted again in September by a three-member American team led by Dan McCann. They appear to have followed the Japanese route to a high point of 6,500m on the 22nd. The following day McCann and Bob Merrill reached the 6,540m west summit of Friendship Peak (6,592m).

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, www.climbmagazine.com

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