American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Rolwaling Himal, Likhu Chuli I, North Ridge, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Likhu Chuli I, north ridge, attempt. Japanese Koichi Ezaki and Hiroshi Kudo made the first official attempt on the north ridge of Likhu Chuli I (6,719m). The well-known trekking peak of Parchamo (6,279m) is the northerly extension of this ridge. On November 24 the pair climbed the steep and technically difficult east (Khumbu) flank of the ridge towards the crest, fixing rope to 5,950m. Above, they felt the need to fix more rope. They had cached ropes earlier in the month, after Ezaki led a larger expedition to Parchamo, but when they returned they found the ropes had been stolen. Not wishing to progress without more fixed rope, they abandoned the expedition.

In 1960 a French team, led by Robert Sandoz, that had Chobuje (Chobutse, 6,686m) as its original aim, climbed a number of peaks from the Rolwaling, including Parchamo and Pimu. After abandoning Chobutse due to ice fall, they turned to Likhu Chuli I (then known as Pigpherago Shar). After establishing camps at 5,500m and 6,150m, Cécile Barbezat and Nawang Dorje reached the summit on October 21 via the steep, difficult west ridge. To the west, Likhu Chuli II (Pigpherago Nup, 6,659m) has no known ascent. Both summits were officially opened to foreign climbers in 2003.

Elizabeth Hawley, AAC Honorary Member, Nepal, and Richard Salisbury, The Himalayan Database

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