Asia, Nepal, Upper Dolpo, Panzang Region, Chamar Kang, Probable First Ascent

Publication Year: 2008.

Chamar Kang, probable first ascent. After a long trek around northern Dolpo following in the footsteps of the great Japanese explorer Ekai Kawaguchi, a seven-member Osaka Yamanokai (Osaka Alpine Club) party, led by Tamotsu Ohnishi, arrived at Tinkyu in the Panzang Khola and on September 19 set up base camp at Kangtega Sumna (4,550m), between the 5,564m border pass of Chukang La and, to the south, the 5,466m Kella La.

The next day they traveled west into the valley known as Tinje, from where they planned to attempt Chamar Kang (a.k.a Changmar Kang or Kang Tega, 6,060m, N 29°14’10”, E 83°21’48”). From here they climbed to the crest of the north ridge at 5,886m but then descended to a col at 5,720m to set up a high camp for the night.

On the 21st Toshitsugi Irisawa, Koichi Kato, Ohnishi, and Chhepa Sherpa left the camp at 6:15 a.m. and set off up the northeast face. They climbed this snow-and-ice slope of 45–55° in nine pitches by front-pointing, using double ice tools and 60m ropes. A further four pitches led to the summit, which they gained at 2 p.m. By 3:30 p.m. all four had regained the high camp, and they returned to base camp just after 7 p.m. Worsening weather accompanied them as they climbed down the route of ascent [Ohnishi originally believed that this peak had been climbed previously, but there are no reports of this, nor did he find any evidence—Ed]. The next day Kaori Inaba and Koji Mizutani repeated the ascent.

Tamotsu Ohnishi, Japanese Alpine Club