Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), Central Summit, Secret of Thin Ice

Climb Year: N/A. Publication Year: 2008.

Point 5,930m (Rachu Tangmu), central summit, Secret of Thin Ice. Two Slovak mountaineers, Andrej Kolarik and Juraj Svingal, climbed a new route to an unclimbed peak in the massif of Pt. 5,930m. This peak is situated on the other site of the main river in Miyar Valley, opposite Castle Peak. They called the massif “Rachu Tangmu” (Cold Horns) because the main summit looks like two horns. The first ascent of the main summit of Rachu Tangmu was made in 2005 by Oriol Baro and Oscar Cacho. The Slovak route, Secret of Thin Ice, climbs to the central tower of Rachu Tangmu (1,340m, ED+, 850, M6+ A1). They climbed this route in three days from September 29 to October 1. Until noon of the first day they were on the lower, easier part of the face, then they continued up the steep part on dangerous bad ice and snow. After a cold bivy, they traversed a bit to the right. They reached the edge of a couloir in the dark and climbed until midnight. After four hours of rest they finished their route and reached the central summit of Rachu Tangmu. The main summit was far away, with two broken and hard towers on the ridge. With no food or water, they decided to descend, reaching base camp at 22:30.

This was the third Slovak expedition to Miyar Valley. In 2002 Igor Koller, Dodo Kopold, Vlado Linek, and Ivan Stefansky did a new route, Sharp Knife of Tolerance (500m, F7a+ A3) to the ridge of Iris Peak in the massif of Castle Peak in 11 days. In 2003 Kopold and Stefansky returned to Miyar and made the first ascent of Last Minute Journey (900m, ED) via the south face of the Three Peaks Mountain massif. They called this peak Mt. Mahindra (5,845m).

Vlado Linek, Jamesak, Slovakia

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