Rimo I (7,385m), route unknown. In July-August, an Indian Mountaineering Foundation team led by Major K. S. Dhami claims to have reached the summit of Rimo I, a difficult peak in a side valley to the east of the Siachen Glacier. Bad weather and porter trouble hounded the expedition from the start. Kalyansing (an instructor at NIM) drowned in the Terong River in the first days of the expedition. Major Dhami suffered serious frostbite. The weather was said to be poor on the summit day, but we await further details and photographs. Rimo I was only climbed oncc previously, in 1988 by an Indo-Japancsc expedition jointly led by Hukam Singh and Yoshi Ogata, via the southwest ridge. Prior to the first ascent the mountain had defeated very capable climbers such as Victor Saunders and Stephen Venables (1985) and Peter Hillary (1986).

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal, and Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, www.climbmagazine.com