American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Eastern Karakoram, Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), New Approach and Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey in October-November. Following a new approach route, they climbed the peak as autumn cold and snow was settling in. After crossing Saser La, they turned north along the Shrok and turned further west in the Thangman Valley leading toward Mamostong Kangri. Climbing a ridge directly, they avoided the Hope Col. Several members reached the summit (numbers and names are not known). Mamostong Kangri lies south of the Chong Kumdan massif and features a 2,000m face that must be one of the greatest unclimbed snow and ice walls in the Indian Himalaya; it will be a super-route if a safe line can be found. While camped nearly a mile from the bottom of this face in 1991, a British team was buffeted by spindrift from a large serac avalanche. The 2007 Indo-French team climbed the opposite side, repeating the original route via the southeast ridge to the upper northeast ridge, first climbed in 1984 by an Indo-Japanese expedition led by Balwant Sandhu (who made the first ascent of Changabang). This was a strong team, with experienced Japanese such as Ogata and Yamada, and Indians such as Chauhan, PM Das, and Rajiv Sharma. This high mountain has received about half a dozen ascents by several routes, but the 2007 ascent appears to be the first since 1992.

Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal, and Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, www.climbmagazine.com

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