Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh – Other, Broad Peak, Winter Attempt

Publication Year: 2008.

Broad Peak, winter attempt. Italian Simone Moro led a small team to attempt the first winter ascent of Broad Peak (8,047m). His partners were Leonhard Werth and accomplished Pakistani 8,000m climbers Qudrat Ali and Shaheen Beg, from Shimshal. In the winter of 2006–07, Beg and Moro had managed to reach the site of Camp 3, despite huge logistical and administrative difficulties delaying their approach to base camp. In 2007–08 Moro once again was plagued by logistical problems and didn’t arrive at the 4,800m base camp until near the end of January, by which time Werth, fed up with the delays, had left for home. By February 3 the remaining three had reached the site for Camp 2 at 6,200m on the original 1957 route, fixing some 5mm static rope. During the month they made a couple of attempts to go higher but were always beaten back by high winds and -35°C temperatures.

In early March, with their permit due to expire on the 10th, they got a break. Reaching Camp 3 at 7,200m, they set out at 6:30 a.m. and by 2 p.m., in great weather, had reached 7,800m. Although Moro felt strong enough to continue to the summit, he realized it would mean a night out during the descent, something all the climbers would be unlikely to survive. They retreated.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO Editor, adapted from

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