AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Uli Biaho and Trango Groups, Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom

Shipton Spire (Hainabrakk), Fragments of Freedom. Our team of four climbers from the Moscow Karakoram Expedition— Denis Savelyev (leader), Evgeny Korol, Andrew Muryshev, and Sergey Nilov— ascended a new line called Fragments of Freedom on Hainabrakk’s southeast face. Although there were already several routes on this face, we found a completely new line, not joining or crossing the others. Our route is just to the left of the 2001 Italian route (Women and Chalk) and right of the 1996 and 1998 American routes.

Climbing capsule-style, we tried to follow the most direct line we could. As a result, the route has lots of artificial climbing up to A4. Several pitches were completely free, but dirt and grass in wet cracks limited the free climbing. We began climbing on July 18, and all four climbers reached the summit on July 30. We descended the route, removing all ropes and gear except belay bolts, and reached the base on July 31, after 14 days on the wall. The 1,450m route went in 33 pitches and was graded VII A4 6b+.

We had lots of problems organizing the trip and during our trek to base camp, but we solved them all. As for me, I am very happy. There’s nothing more exciting and pleasurable than making something new.

Denis Savelyev, Russia