Asia, Pakistan, Overview

Publication Year: 2008.

Overview. In 2007 Pakistani authorities received 91 applications to climb various peaks, of which 83 were approved, including 14 applicants who were granted permission to climb two peaks each, one three peaks, and another four peaks. Two expeditions were not granted permission to climb peaks situated close to the war zone near the Siachen Glacier, and six expeditions withdrew their applications. In all, 102 attempts on 22 permitted peaks were made, and 201 climbers, including 13 from Pakistan, were successful.

Eight climbers from a 26-member Austrian expedition, including the leader, Gerfried Göschl, reached the summit of Broad Peak to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the peak’s first ascent, also by Austrians. Overall, 19 of 25 expeditions were successful on Broad Peak, putting 77 climbers on the summit.

Unlike the previous year, 2007 was successful for climbers on K2. Twenty-nine climbers from eight expeditions reached the top (out of 130 total climbers). The successful climbers included 11 members of the Russian expedition to climb a new route on the west wall. In contrast, it was an unsuccessful year on Gasherbrum II, as only one out of 14 expeditions reached the summit. There was one casualty on this peak, Jiri Danek, a member of the Czech expedition, who died after being hit by an avalanche. This avalanche affected much of the climbing route, and, when no safe route could be found, other expeditions abandoned their attempts. On Gasherbrum I, meanwhile, six of 10 expeditions were successful, putting 27 climbers on top. All five expeditions attempting Nanga Parbat were successful, putting 17 of 32 climbers on top without any accidents. There were 11 expeditions to Spantik Peak, of which 10 returned successfully, putting 44 climbers on top.

Two of this year’s climbs are featured earlier in this Journal: the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South by two French climbers, Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff, and the first ascent of K7 West by an American-Slovenian expedition led by Steven House.

Winter attempts on Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat in 2007-2008 were unsuccessful. Expeditions to all other peaks requiring permits were unsuccessful, including Gasherbrum III and V, K6, Latok I, Khunyang Chhish Main and East, Pamri Sar, Masherbrum, Shispare, Diran, Ultar Sar, Rakaposhi, Beka Brakai, Kampire Dior, and Yeshcook. Some of these attempts are reported below.

Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Alpine Club of Pakistan