Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 5,055m, Pik 4,975m, first ascents; Pik 4,995m, attempt. After a two-day drive from Bishkek into the Kokshaal region, Dave Swinburne and I were dropped off on July 20, having arranged to be collected at the same point on August 8. During this time we made two ascents of new peaks at the head of the Malitskovo Glacier. The peaks are marked 5,055m and 4,975m on the American Alpine Club’s Kyrgyzstan map, but our GPS recorded 5,061m and 5,100m, respectively. Both peaks provided simple ascents of PD in grade. We found more interesting AD climbing during an attempt upon Pik 4,995m. The final summit ridge held unstable slush-like snow, and we found it unsafe to continue. We then spent several days on the adjacent Nalivkin Glacier. Several inches of fresh snow and daily squalls prevented further attempts.
Night temperatures rarely fell below freezing. With lots of sun, this made for poor snow conditions. We advise that a later period would be better for climbing in this area. This is supported by other trip reports, but we were governed by our work holidays.
Stewart Howard, U.K.