South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, El Gordo, el Flaco y el'Abuelito

Publication Year: 2008.

Torre Central, El Gordo, el Flaco y el'Abuelito. Rolando Larcher, Elio Orlandi, and I climbed a direct new route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine, between Magico Este and Riders on the Storm. The 1,250m route has 7a+ free climbing (6b+ obl.) and a short section of A3+, but the aid is only about 20% of the route. We climbed 23 pitches, capsule style, with many being 65m and 70m long. We climbed for three days (January 25–27, 2008), preparing the lower part, and then rested on January 28 as, despite a nice day, we were exhausted. The next day we attacked the wall, and on February 7 at 6 p.m. we summited the Central Tower. On the 8th, at 11 p.m. we reached the base after a romantic rappel.

Fabio Leoni, Italy