Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did some climbs in a remote area of the Peruvian Apolobamba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few climbers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter Butzhammer, Benjamin Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fuchs, and I had already climbed in the Cordillera Vilcanota when we met Hermann Wolf, who invited us to explore the Quebrada Viscachani, in the Cordillera Apolobamba, with his expedition. His team also included Gerd Dauch, Manni Obermeier, and Otto Reus (who had been to the Apolobamba with Hermann in 1968).

In 2004 we did the following climbs:

July 10: Suchi I / Hue- joloma I (5,361m), first ascent, north ridge, probably UIAA rock II (perhaps III); O. Reus, P. Butzhammer, B. Reuter, Bros Delgado (Peruvian).

July 13: Suchi III / Hue- joloma III (5,243m), first ascent, from northwest, loose rock and sand, UIAA II near the summit; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. Obermeier, A. Bayerlein, Andres Zevallos (Peruvian).

July 15: Chaupi Oreo (6,059m), new route; first ascent from Peruvian side; from northwest via Glaciar Viscachani, difficult due to crevasses, camp at 5,450m, then up north ridge to the summit; Dr. S. Fuchs, B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein.

July 15: Suchi II / Hue- joloma II (5,238m), first ascent, from northeast; H. Wolf, O. Reus, M. Obermeier, A. Zevallos (Peruvian).

July 18: Sorapata II (5,511m), first ascent, via Glaciar Sorapata parallel to Sorapata Crest, then up east ridge (snow, rock, ice), then becoming mainly rock to the summit; B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein.

We know of a German expedition made up of Ulrich Lossen, Thomas Drexler, Robin Groschup, and Thomas Raab that had been in the area in 2005 and made the probable first ascents of Sorapata III (5,440m, west ridge, after climbing over Sorapata II, Drexler-Groschup- Lossen) and Yanaloma (5,219m, north-northeast ridge, rock up to III+, whole team). We also heard that an international team failed to repeat our climb on Chaupi Orco.

In 2004 Benjamin and I saw an interesting gully in the Salluyo group, but unfortunately we didn’t have time. In September 2006 I called Benjamin, and we began organizing our return.

In 2007 we made the following climbs (with, as above, new route and first ascent claims according to our research). Our base camp was in the Quebrada Viscachani at 4,635m:

Nevado Salluyo II (5,818m), new route; from camp at 5,315m, west gully (400m, TD-/TD 80° III [UIAA rock]); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein.

Nevado Chaupi Orco Norte (5,958m [Jordan map], 6,025m [GPS]), new route and first ascent from this side; from camp at 5,365m, west-northwest ridge (650m, AD+ 70° III); Jan Eisenstein, Dr. S. Fuchs. FA of peak was in 1950s (Italians), second in 1960s (Hermann Wolf), both from the Bolivian side.

Campanane II (5,307m), probable first ascent, northeast ridge (mostly rock I and II, with some III); B. Reuter, A. Bayerlein.

Yanaloma (5,219m), new route and first ascent from this side, southeast ridge (450m, V- [mostly III and IV]); B. Reuter, R Brosius.

Nevado Chaupi Orco (6,059m), new route; from camp at 5,450m, north face (500m, D- 60°); J. Eisenstein, B. Reuter, M. Hoess, R Brosius.

Nevado Sorapata IV (5,272m), first ascent, from base camp up the Sorapata Crest, then descend 50m, then south of the glacier between Sorapata II and III, then up again (some II rock) and across small glacier at ridge and more easy rock to summit (PD II); Dr. S. Fuchs, A. Bayerlein.

Caca Yuacho Cocho (5,557m), from northeast; J. Eisenstein, M. Hoess.

Andreas Bayerlein, Germany