Chinchey Central, Directa Alberto Vittone. On May 19 Peruvian climbers Elias Flores, Michel Araya, Miguel Martinez, and Quique Apolinario, all Don Bosco de los Andes guides, started their journey from the town of Huantar to the Quebrada Rurichinchay, a deep valley with heavy vegetation from its start. A road does not exist to base camp.

They stayed at a moraine camp (4,950m) on May 23, trekked higher on unstable, serac- threatened ice, and established base camp at 5,400m. They prepared to climb the next day, but bad weather and avalanche danger caused them to wait in base camp for two more nights. On May 26 at 2 a.m. they started. It took two hours to reach the northeast face, where 60° to 65° ice made stakes and ice screws extremely useful. They climbed 60m pitches, and at 1 p.m. they finished climbing the wall and reached the final ridge, and then the 6,222m summit at 1:30, naming their route Directa Alberto Vittone (750m, D). They rappelled from Abalakovs down their line of ascent. Since the wall is in the sun all day, they recommend an evening descent.

Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru