American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Quebrada Ishinca, Rock Climbs

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Quebrada Ishinca, rock climbs. In early July in the Quebrada Ishinca, German climbers Alexander Schmalz-Friedberger and Michael Zettelmeyer established Con Ojeras Debajo de Ojos Vidriosos (180m, 5.10+ C2) on the overhanging east face of Ishik Ulloc (Ulloc Chico), the next formation to the right (east) of Hatun Ulloc. The route finishes by climbing the chimney between Ishik Ulloc’s twin summits, sharing the final pitch with the 2005 route, Lawak.

Around the same time, their teammates Hans-Martin Troebs and Marc Wolff climbed a new route in the middle of the east face of Hatun Ulloc. Compañia Vertical (200m, 7b, 6b ob.) is approached via the first three pitches of Karma de los Condores (Crill-Gallagher, 2004), on the south face, to the big ledge, before traversing around to the east face. The steep route includes four protection and 12 belay bolts (all placed by hand, on lead), and also makes for an excellent rappel route for parties who’ve climbed Karma de los Condores.

Compiled from reports from www.alpinist.com and Antonio Gómez Bohórquez

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.