Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste, Hay Que Ser Humildes

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Climb Year: N/A. Publication Year: 2008.

Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste, Hay Que Ser Humildes. In mid-August Carlos Pineda and I climbed a direct line on the southwest face of Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste (Noroeste I; 5,290m). This Nevado is situated southeast of well-known Nevado Chacraraju. Our base camp was at the abandoned Refugio Glaciar Broggi, next to Laguna Broggi. On August 14 we left our cozy camp early, reaching the base of the wall just after sunrise. Due to the chossy condition of this face, the route involves loose rock with poor protection. Rockfall is common, especially in the afternoon when the wall receives sun. The route starts to the left of a noticeable ice-water runoff in the middle of the amphitheater that leads to the face. The first pitch was a spicy, verglas-covered 5.8. From there the route continued on a relatively easy slab to 150m of class 4. Nine more pitches of moderate climbing, with short sections up to 5.9+, put us on the summit ridge. Another 200m of loose class 4 and a short section on snow led to the summit. We descended the west ridge to the Laguna Glaciar Broggi and were back to camp 14 hours after leaving. We dubbed our route Hay Que Ser Humildes (550m, V 5.9+R), and I dedicate it to our fallen friends in the mountains. We have to keep in mind that, after all, the mountains always have the final say.

Maikey Lopera, Venezuela