American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, South Coast, Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man, Attempt; Ulamertorssuaq, War and Poetry, Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man, attempt; Ulamertorssuaq, War and Poetry, attempt. Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski and I have climbed in Patagonia, Yosemite, and the Trango Tower area of Pakistan. Last year we visited Greenland, from late July till late August. Out of the 26 days that we spent in the Tasermiut, it rained on 20. Three times we attempted the new German route, Stupid White Man on Nalumatorsoq, but each time we were defeated by rain. The route is nice and follows a logical line up a continuous crack system. All pitches are difficult, and even the easiest involve offwidths. On our first attempt we climbed the first five pitches onsight, though the last, which we felt was 5.11+, we led with rest points. On our second attempt we climbed the first five pitches on our first try but only managed the sixth pitch on the fourth attempt. We felt this pitch to be 5.12b. The next two pitches we climbed onsight, but the ninth was very vegetated, and we spent three hours aiding and cleaning it, before making a redpoint at 5.12a. Once again we were forced down by rain. On our third and final attempt we climbed each of the initial nine pitches on our first try, and then continued up a straightforward 10th pitch before again being defeated by rain. We gave up and decided to go to Ulamertorssuaq.

On the big west face we climbed the first 16 pitches (the bolted ones) of War and Poetry onsight at 5.12b. However, the 17th pitch, rated 12c, we only got on our second go. We then climbed two more difficult offwidths before it got dark and from our high point made four rappels to the Black Heart Ledge, where we bivouacked. During the night it rained, so we bailed, rappelling to the ground in two hours. For our trip we used the services of Tierras Polares, by whom we were given considerable assistance. We really recommend this organization—great service at a great price.

Maciek Ciesielski, Poland

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