American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, East Coast,Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 2008

Schweizerland, Mt. Forel and Perfeknunatak, corrections. The route climbed on Mt. Forel by the Spanish team in 2006 was the northeast ridge and not the southeast as statedin AAJ 2007 (pp. 204-5). Most likely this was a first ascent; the ridge seen on the right side of the picture on p. 204, the northwest ridge, was climbed by a Tangent expedition. Forel was first climbed in 1938, via a relatively straightforward snow route, by Andre Roch's Swiss expedition, which traveled through Schweizerland and climbed 13 other virgin peaks, including Laupers Bjerg, Rodeburg, and Rytterknaegten, the latter an impressive technical rock ascent. Forel did not receive a second ascent until 1966, when it was climbed by Japanese. However, it is more likely to have had 20 or so ascents, rather than a dozen as reported.

The Spanish also climbed the southwest ridge of Perfeknunatak via a line they named Al Tran-tran. Although the report states they weren't clear if the peak had been climbed before, it is actually located directly opposite Forel and was first climbed by Swiss in ‘38. Hans Christian Florian, Jens Jørgen Kjærgaard, and Martin Madsen climbed it on June 3rd, 2004, and discovered a fine cairn on the summit. They checked for messages and rebuilt it, and are surprised that it was not visible to the Spanish. The straightforward route to this summit is from the east, just out of the frame to the right on the p. 204 photo.

Hans Christian Florian, Greenland

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