American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. [Note: In addition to mention in this summary, some of the routes have individual reports, below—Ed.] Summer 2007 never really set up on the coast, with only short intermittent periods of settled sunny weather, and mountaineering suffered. One group that did have a holiday full of innovative climbs were six Scots who based themselves just north of Mt. Geddes (3,227m) in the Frontier Group, 10km northwest of Mt. Waddington. Over a two week period they managed many new routes on both rock and ice, including two fine additions to the north face of Geddes.

Jay Burbee, Peter Hudson, Cam Shute, and Brock Wilson knocked off the long-talked- about second ascent of the beautiful, solid granite 350m southeast buttress of Mt. Queen Bess (3,298m), ticking the first free ascent in the process (about 5.10a).

The rest of the backcountry was quiet. I participated in two exploratory trips, which, while opening a bit of new territory, were modest technically. The first, with Markus Raschke, Peter Renz, and Mickey Schurr, explored remote, mostly untrod terrain in the far northwestern lobe of the Pantheon Range, 10km southwest of Klinaklini Lake, in unsettled weather. Jordan Peters and I also enjoyed a brief trip into the head of Beece Creek, east of Taseko Lake in the dry, sprawling south Chilcotin area. We climbed Mt. Vic (3,005m) from the west via the snowslopes of the upper northwest ridge, but an attempt on a new ice route on the superb, expansive north face of Beece Peak (ca 3,025m) had to be put off for another visit because of lack of time.

Paul Baker, Jesse Mason, and Jordan Peters climbed the 450m northwest buttress on Mt. Moe (2,664m), north of Wedgemount Lake in early September, finding decent rock at a 4th- to low 5th-class standard.

Don Serl, Canada, ACC, AAC

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