American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2008

North Chasm View Wall, Air Guitar. In May Jared Ogden and I redpointed Air Guitar (V 5.12+), a 17-pitch line on good rock up the middle of North Chasm View Wall. For several years we poked around before sorting out the line that begins right of the Diagonal and follows an obvious, clean, right-facing corner system to join High and Dry, for a couple of pitches, where it crosses the Diagonal. Our route then veers left on steep rock for several pitches, to join the last few pitches of Air City through the big roofs near the top.

The climb has some of the most memorable pitches in the Canyon, including the Great Roof for Dads, a 60' roof traverse that looks like 5.13+ but goes at 5.10, the pumpy, spicy High and Dry pitch off the Diagonal, the final Air City roof, Devils Toweresque corner cracks, and some Eldorado-quality face climbing on natural gear. It is mostly 5.11 and 5.12 and took us two days for the redpoint. There are a few good ledges, but a one-day ascent would be a good time. The redpoint of Air Guitar was about the most fun I’ve ever had climbing.

Topher Donahue

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