Lost Eagle Pinnacle, Jenkins-Fleming Direct. On July 1 Patrick Fleming and I, both secret members of the notorious Wyoming Alpine Club, whined our way up a new route on the northwest face of Lost Eagle Pinnacle. Beginning at dawn we headed for a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral, found another one a few pitches up, moved back right, ascended a chimney choked with ice, then continued up the middle of the face to the summit. Descending the opposite side (south face), we spilled down five 200' raps to reach the top of a high gully, and walked west and then north down scree. We were back in time for dinner, with hair-raising stories of friable rock, freaky runouts, and a fridge-sized boulder that we pulled down on ourselves while rapping. Don’t believe any of it. Gorgeous adventure: 13 pitches, 5.9R.

Mark Jenkins, AAC