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Asia, New Zealand, Autumn 2006-Autumn 2007, Barron Saddle—Mt. Brewster Region, Summary

Barron Saddle – Mt. Brewster Region, summary. With plums still to be picked, this extensive and remote mountain tract between the Aoraki Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring areas has seen continued activity from a motivated few. Guidebook author Ross Cullen teamed up with Nick Shearer to make the first ascent of the East Ridge of Mt. Hiwiroa (2,281m), a seven-hour scramble. Paul Hersey with various partners has made number of notable first ascents. During winter he climbed The Grr Room (WI 4, four pitches) with Mat Woods on Peak 2,200m. Also during the winter Kester Brown and Jono Clarke climbed a very obvious thin ice flow at the head of North Temple Valley: Temple of Doom (M6 WI 4). New ice routes were also climbed in Bush Stream, off the Aoraki Mt. Cook Highway.

Hersey’s name pops up again, this time with Graham Zimmermann. The pair made a first ascent on the south face of Taiaha Peak. The classic-looking line was named I’ve Found Cod (500m, 4+ WI3). In February 2007, Hersey, this time with Danny Bailie, headed into the Ahuriri and climbed a 700m new route on the south face of Mt. Huxley. Hey I Ordered a Cheeseburger (4-16) followed rock most of the way, with a mixed section at the top. The same pair also made the first ascent of the east face of Peak 2,237m in the west branch of South Temple Valley. This gave a 400-500m rock route with a crux of 14 (3+ overall). On Glen Lyon at the entrance to the Hopkins Valley, Hersey with Mat Woods climbed Vote For Hillary, a six-pitch 15. Glen Lyon now has a number of multi-pitch rock routes on its flanks.

Mark Watson, New Zealand Alpine Club