Asia, China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan, Genyen Massif, Sachun, First Ascent; Phurba, First Ascent
Genyen massif, Sachun, first ascent; Phurba, first ascent. In October Dave Anderson, Molly Loomis, Andy Tyson, and Canadian Sara Hueniken visited the Genyen massif. On the 20th Anderson and Hueniken climbed the long south ridge of Sachun in a 17-hour roundtrip from their high camp. They called the climb Dang Ba ’Dren Pa (5.10+ AO M5 70°), a Tibetan phrase meaning to inspire, enthuse, and uplift.
The following day Loomis and Tyson climbed a ca 5,685m peak they named Phurba, due to its resemblance to the triple-bladed Tibetan dagger. Leaving base camp they scrambled unroped up loose rock and a steep snow couloir to gain the south ridge, then climbed eight pitches of mixed snow and rock (5.8) to the top. They called the route Naga (Serpent). Loomis and Tyson also climbed the southeast and east face of a peak they called Damaru (ca 5,655m), reaching a point 25 feet below the twin summits. A feature story by Molly Loomis appears earlier in the Journal.