American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Kin Lun, Aksai Chin, North Summit, Second Ascent, Southeast Route

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Aksai Chin, north summit, second ascent, southeast route. As reported in AAJ 2006, p. 439, Aksai Chin (7,167m: sometimes referred to as Kun Lun, as it is the highest peak in this part of Kun Lun Range) was climbed in 1986 and 1997 by Japanese expeditions. On the 1986 ascent the party also traversed the summit ridge to the north summit. This lower summit, named Doufeng (6,957m), was climbed again in April-May by my client Bruno Paulet and me (guiding). We climbed a new route from the southeast directly to the top (900m, AD), taking two days for the glacier approach from base camp and reaching the summit on the third. However, we felt the easiest route to either summit was from the northwest, a flank that might provide a nice ski ascent.

Christian Trommsdorff, France

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