Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley, Longmun Tower, Dirt Box, Previously Unreported

Publication Year: 2007.

Logmun Tower, Dirt Box, previously unreported. In 2001, before making an attempt on the north ridge of Shingu Charpa, Nils Davis, Brian McCray, Brenton Warren, and I climbed two routes on the Logmun Tower. The Davis-Offenbacher route, Dirt Box, took four-and-a-half days to complete after we fixed the first two pitches. The climbing was steep, and almost all the cracks filled with dirt. We could have climbed the route much faster, free-climbing most of it up to 5.11+, had the cracks been Yosemite clean. The route was around 20 pitches long, with the crux, A3 hooking, halfway up. We placed one rivet at a belay before the hand drill broke and thereafter only placed a few pitons. We spent four nights in a portaledge under clear skies, and when we launched the haul bags from a ledge two pitches below the top, the bags took two bounces before falling free to the ground. From the top of the tower a fantastic knife-edge ridge led back to terra firma. The grade was VI 5.10 A3.

McCray and Warren climbed to the top of pitch two of this route and then broke out left. In their middle section, they followed a long, and striking offwidth that was clearly visible from base camp and appears close to the Spanish route [reported above].

Todd Offenbacher, AAC