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Asia, Pakistan, Charakusa Valley, Farol Peak, First Ascent

Farol Peak, first ascent. The first ascent of the highest summit of Farol Peak, Farol West (6,370m) was made in 1991 by British climbers Neil Wilson and me. We climbed the 1,000m south face at Scottish III, reaching the summit at 3 a.m. We began rappelling the route from there, leaving a snow stake. In the photo in AAJ 2006, p. 373, our route climbs the hanging glacier between the west and central tops, until just above the large serac formation in the “narrows.” From there we slanted steeply up left directly to the summit. While based on the Charakusa, we also made the second ascent of Sulo Peak (ca 5,900m).

Ian Stewart, U.K.