American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Mustagh—Other, Baltoro Cathedrals, Reflexed Nocturns

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Baltoro Cathedrals, Reflexes Nocturns. A large Catalan team comprising Antonio Bayones, Oscar Cadiach, Ramon Canyellas, Elias Coll, Pilar Rossinyol, Albert Segura, and Toti Vales climbed a big new rock route on the Baltoro Cathedrals. These are a complex collection of rocky spires overlooking the Baltoro Glacier and rising above the east bank of the lower Dunge Glacier opposite the Trango Group. The expedition took place from June 20 to July 16. The new route, which they named Reflexes Nocturns (1,500m, 7a), consists of four sections. In the first difficulties are moderate, with plenty of 4 but a crux of 6b. Above, 300m of scrambling and easy climbing lead to the upper section of the wall, where difficulties increase. The crux 7a pitch is situated near the top. The top of the wall is at ca 5,500m. From there, 300m of scrambling lead to the ca 5,800m summit. The climbers made three camps on the route.

It is unclear which summit the Catalans reached, but the Cathedrals have been the objective of several expeditions, the first recorded climb being by Jim Beyer, who in 1989 soloed a 54-pitch line off the Dunge Glacier to the summit of Thunmo (5,866m), which lies south of Cathedral Spire. His impressive 13-day ascent was graded VII 5.10d A4+.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, CLIMB Magazine

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