American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Chogolungma Group, Twin Peak I

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Twin Peak I. Previously unreported was a 2005 visit to the Kero-Lungma Glacier by a small British expedition comprising Bill Church, Pete Holden, and Colin Morton. During July and August they planned to explore the northeast branch and climb some of the biggest peaks at its head but were only able to make the probable first ascent of Twin Peak I (ca 5,500m on maps), which they felt was more like 5,800m. On several occasions they were forced to retreat from high camps on Twin Peak II (ca 5,450m) and Pt 6,123m by poor weather and dangerous conditions. They warn future expeditions that indicated heights vary from one map to another and rarely agreed with their own findings.

The Kero-Lungma flows southeast from the Nushak La, an old pass linking the valley to the Hispar Glacier. No peaks appear to have been climbed from the Kero-Lungma before 1996, when the valley was visited by a four-man British expedition that included Bill Church. The British in 1996 climbed three peaks, including Redakh Brakk (ca 6,000m) on the Hispar watershed. [See AAJ 1997, pp. 313-315.]

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, CLIMB Magazine

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