American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Dariyo Sar, First Ascent; Pt. 6,250m, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents of two peaks on the Baltar Glacier. After an unsuccessful attempt to reach the northwest spur of Rakaposhi as part of a larger Italian expedition, Renzo Corona and Ivo Ferrari traveled up the Baltar Glacier and made the first ascent of the impressive 6,350m Dariyo Sar (a.k.a. Biril Gai Chhok). This peak lies on the west rim of the upper Baltar, between the north and west branches of the glacier, and on the crest of the long ridge running south from unclimbed Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940m) on the Batura watershed. There had been no previous serious attempt on this peak, though in 1998 it was the goal of a British expedition that met with poor snow. The two Italians climbed the 1,200m east face (70° maximum), a great sweep of snow and ice, over two days, August 14 and 15. A few days later Ferrari made the first ascent of the unnamed 6,250m peak immediately to the south. Over August 17 and 18 he climbed the 1,000m southeast face, with maximum steepness of 70°.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, CLIMB Magazine

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