American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Overview

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Overview. This year 91 applications were received by the Pakistan authorities for permits to climb various peaks. Of these, 78 applicants were granted permission to climb their peaks of choice, including 10 applicants who were granted permission to climb two peaks each. Ten expeditions were unable to gain permission to climb peaks situated in the Hindu Kush, as these objectives were considered too close to troubled Afghanistan. Peaks situated close to the war zone of the Siachen Glacier were similarly affected. Three expeditions later withdrew their applications.

Of 88 attempts on 22 peaks, 40 succeeded in putting 199 climbers on the summit of eight peaks. Eighteen out of 21 expeditions attempting Gasherbrum II in the year of its golden jubilee were successful, with 126 climbers reaching the summit. Seven expeditions went to K2, but only two were successful, putting four climbers on the summit. These included the Japanese Yuka Komatsu, who at 23 years and 10 months is the youngest female to climb the mountain, and Tatsuya Aoki, who at 21 years and 10 months became the youngest person. Four Russians were caught in an avalanche at 8,350m and disappeared.

Fourteen teams went to Broad Peak, of which six were successful in putting a total of 21 members on top. Only three expeditions and a total of nine climbers out of the seven expeditions to Gasherbrum I reached the summit. On Nanga Parbat three of the six teams were successful, though only four climbers summited. Eight teams tried the normal route on the now popular Spantik. Six were successful, and 30 climbers reached the top. Parties climbed both Latok II and III. The rest of the expeditions, which included those to Baintha Brakk, Batura II, Chogolisa, Diran, Gasherbrum IV, K7, Khunyang Chhish, Latok I, Masherbrum, Passu Peak, Rakaposhi, and Shispare were unsuccessful [though a number of these attempts are reported below].

Saad Tariq Siddiqi, Honorary Secretary, Alpine Club of Pakistan

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