AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Austvagoy Alkoholvegen, Prohibition and Drink it Up

Austvagoy, Alkoholvegen, Prohibition and Drink it Up. Four young Slovak climbers, Andrej Harsany (21), Jan Harsany (16), Peter Nes- ticky (20) and Marcel Zemko (19) visited the Lofoten Islands from June 19 to July 15. On June 29 they put up two new routes on Alkoholvegen (the Alcohol Wall), northwest of Kallevatnet on the main island of Austvagoy. The crag is home to the popular nine-pitch climb Rom and Cola (5.8, Bjorns- tad-Bjornstad-Meyer, 1977).

Climbing in excellent weather on the previously untouched left part of the face, Jan Harsany and Zemko did Prohibition (UIAA VI+). This route is seven pitches long, with excellent crack climbing on perfect granite. Andrej Harsany and Nesticky did Drink it Up, a seven-pitch route at UIAA VII. The first two pitches coincide with Rom and Cola, but the new route continues directly up the 100m dihedral above.

During their stay on the island they also climbed the established routes Forside (5.8, five pitches), on the famous 150m granite pinnacle of Svolveargeita (the Svolvaer Goat above the city of Svolvaer); Mygga (Mosquito), the middle pillar on Vagakallen (5.8), climbed by the team in six pitches; and the classic Vestpillaren with the direct start (5.10a/b, 13 pitches), on Preston.

Vlado Linek, Slovak Mountaineering Union, Slovakia