American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Africa, Morocco, Taghia, Oujdad, North Face and West Spur

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Oujdad, north face and west spur. A Spanish team added a fine line while we busied ourselves with La Bas. In September Luis Alfonso, Dani Martin, and Javi Saez put up Los Ratones Coloraos on the north face of Oujdad. The 400m route has 12 main pitches, finishing right of Whisky Berebere, and from the top of the wall it is possible to scramble to the summit (French 2 and 3) and descend the normal route. The climb is vertical, technical, and sustained (6c+, 6b+ obi) on generally sound but smooth rock with little friction. It is fully bolted, so future ascensionists need carry only 15 quick draws. According to the Spanish topo, it’s not one of the best routes at Taghia, but it’s still pretty good.

Kevin Thaw

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