American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Ansilta Ridge, First Enchainment and General Access Note

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Ansilta Range, first enchainment and general access note. The beautiful Ansilta Range lies near Mercedario. It consists of seven peaks, numbered 1 to 7 north-to-south. Ansilta Número 1 is a little higher than 5,400m on the new IGM map, the second and highest is 5,886m, the third 5,557m, the seventh is glaciated and 5,780m, while the others are not as high, the smallest being 5,116m. Its first ascents were made in the 1960s

In the 1980s I had the idea of enchaining them, but the idea was not carried out until December 2005 by Alfredo Cevallos and Federico Sacchi. They made a 27km enchainment, from the base of #7 to the summit of #1, in just under four days, climbing 6,105m overall and descending 5,800m. They made first ascents of the south faces of #5 and #6 and the third ascent of the Schiller Glacier on #7.

On a note of general importance to climbers in the San Juan province, a new cyanide- using gold mine is restricting climber access. Specifically, the Canadian company Barrick is not allowing climbers access to the Valle del Cura. I, and many climbers have had problems with them. What are they hiding?

Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Aires, Argentina

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