American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Mexico, Durango, Peñon Blanco, Via Lactea

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 2007

Peñon Blanco, Via Lactea. Oriol Anglada (Catalonia) and Marisol Monterrubio (Mexico) opened Via Lactea (270m, 7 pitches, 5.12c [5.12a C2 obi.]) on the south face of Peñon Blanco, near Yerbanis in the high desert of Durango. The route ascends the middle of the smooth central portion of the face, between the routes Lluvia de Estrellas and Irritilas, and is likely the 10th route on the wall. Via Lactea starts with a 5.7 slab (bolts) beside a large boulder, and climbs slabs, thin face, cracks from finger to offwidth, and a chimney. The pair equipped and then freed the route over three days in November, hand-drilling 37 bolts (including belays) ground-up. They recommend a double set of Friends to #3, one #4 Camalot, TCUs, a set of nuts, and micronuts, 12 quickdraws, and double 60m ropes. Rappel the route. More information can be found at www.xpmexico.com -> Roca-Guias –> Durango-Peñon Blanco.

Compiled from emails with the climbers

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