North America, Greenland, East Coast, Gronau Nunatakker, First Ascents
Gronau Nunatakker, first ascents. In August three undergraduates from Oxford University, Chris Abbott, Ben Spencer, and I, flew by ski-equipped plane to a glacier in the Gronau Nunatakker Range and made first ascents in largely unexplored territory. Traveling on skis and pulling sledges, we crossed 90km of terrain in the region separating the main Greenland Icecap from the Watkins Mountains. Since the range has not been mapped, we navigated using GPS, compass, and aerial photographs taken in the 1970s.
Crossing 30m-wide crevasses, experiencing 24 hours of daylight, and absorbing the otherworldly beauty of the hostile landscape made the trip worthwhile in itself. But we did not forget our primary objective, and three- and-a-half weeks of snow and ice climbing resulted in 12 first ascents graded between F and AD.
The first climb, a prominent snow-and-basalt pyramid we named Mt. Currahee, proved to be the most demanding ascent of the trip, involving steep ice, an impromptu bivouac just below the summit, and an extremely difficult bergschrund. We deemed the 28-hour climb a perfect introduction to Arctic mountaineering. We made other notable ascents in an unexplored range just west of the huge Christian IV Glacier. We named this range the Oxford Nunatakker and climbed six of the seven peaks, small nunataks, at F and PD.
We experienced a variety of weather patterns on the icecap, with high pressure systems giving way to clinging fog and even rain, as the temperature rose to +7°C. Toward the end of the trip, as the Arctic summer began to draw to a close, heavy snowfall produced several tent- bound days and much lower temperatures. The thermometer dropped below -20°C during our last few days, and strong winds forced us to abandon one exposed climb.
After 13 months of planning, preparation, training, and, above all, fund-raising, we agreed that the expedition had been everything we had dreamed of and more. It certainly spawned plans for the future.
The following table gives GPS locations of our camps as we skied through the area, and previously virgin mountains (with grades) we climbed.
NAME
DATE
NORTH
WEST
ALTITUDE
Camp 1 (Drop-off point)
08/06/06
69°35'58"
29°49'37"
2,103m
Mt. Currahee (AD)
08/08/06
69°35'33"
29°55'01"
2,612m
Camp 2
08/10/06
69°36'23"
29°32'03"
2,609m
Abbottsbjerg (ski ascent)
08/11/06
69°36'09"
29°38'38"’
2,609m
Camp 3
08/11/06
69°35'10"
29°24'14"
2,556m
Mt. Brasenose (F)
08/12/06
69°33’27"
29°17'48"
2,562m
Byrnesfjeld (F)
08/12/06
69°34'25"
29°17'33"
2,628m
Helenasbjerg (F)
08/12/06
69°34'32"
29°14'46"
2,603m
Camp 4
08/12/06
69°33'59"
29°18'42"
2,490m
Camp 5
08/13/06
69°30'45"
29°15'01"
2,382m
Hannahsbjerg (F)
08/13/06
69°30'55"
29°14'08"
2,520m
Schwerdtfegersbjerg (PD)
08/14/06
69°30'09"
29° 11 ’04"
2,479m
Qureshisbjerg (F)
08/15/06
69°30'26"
29°15'55"
2,517m
Camp 6
08/16/06
69°27'33"
28°50'01"
2,215m
Charlottesbjerg (F)
08/19/06
69°26'55"
28°51'15"
2,444m
Camp 7
08/19/06
69°24'19"
28°40'11"
2,522m
Elizabethsbjerg (F)
08/20/06
69°19'54"
28°30'08"
2,602m
Camp 8
08/20/06
69°19'25"
28°30'20"
2,465m
Camp 9
08/21/06
69°12'39"
28°22'47"
2,019m
Mt. Ward (PD)
08/22/06
69°12'34"
28°27'44"
2,550m
Camp 10
08/23/06
69°09'08"
28°24'50"
1,913m
Sarah’s Spur (F)
08/25/06
69°08'13"
28°26'12"
1,975m
Hauke Engel, U.K.