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North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Eclipse Glacier Area, Various Ascents

Eclipse Glacier area, various ascents. One of the Alpine Club of Canada’s centennial activities was a ski mountaineering camp in the Icefield Ranges of the St. Elias Mountains, Yukon. The early June camp had 16 members, and we climbed 12 mountains surrounding the Eclipse Glacier and also made an ascent of Mt. Walsh. An interesting event was 12 hours of torrential rain at 2,840m (9,500') at our base camp. Rain in the St. Elias has become more common in recent years, and one needs to be prepared.

Four of the climbs were first ascents, and four were new routes. A “guidebook” (57 pages, 11" × 8", 36 colored photographs, and a colored 1:50,000 map) to the general Donjek area is available by contacting me (roger.wallis@sympatico.ca).

The party consisted of Bob Bolin (RB), Paul Geddes (PG), Jim Given (JG), Willa Harasym (WH), Klaus Haring (KH), Jan Ijsakkers (JI), Jessica Logher (JL), John Myles (JM), Peter Oxtoby (PO), John Rasch (JR), Uta Schuler (US), Helen Sovdat (HS), Tim Styles (TS), Bill Walker (WW), Ted Wood (EW), and I (RW).

First Ascents of Mountains:

Pt. 3,340m (South Donjek Group); June 1, PO, TS, via southwest ridge

Pt. 3,300m; June 6, HS, TS, PG, JI, JM, JR, US, WW, EW, via west face

Pt. 3,460m; June 8, HS, TS, PG, JI, JM, JR, US, WW, EW, RB, WH, via south ridge

Pt. 3,500m; June 8, party as above, via west ridge from Pt. 3460m

New Routes:

Pt. 3,540m, 2nd ascent of mountain; June 6, HS, TS, PG, JI, JR, US, WW, EW, from Pt. 3300m via south face

Eclipse Peak/Pt. 3,620m, 2nd ascent; June 9, HS, TS, JI, JR, WE, RB, up snow/ice ridge on east face to reach south ridge, which was followed to summit

Donjek 4/Pt. 3,700m (“East Donjek Group”), 3rd ascent; June 12, TS, PG, JR, via the Eclipse Glacier/East Donjek Glacier col, then traverse below and around Donjek 3/Pt. 3,650m on its northwest side to reach the southwest slopes of Pt. 3,700m

Island Peak/Pt. 3,420m, 4th(?) ascent; June 13, RW, JR, JG, via west face, descent southwest face

Roger Wallis, Canada, ACC, AAC